On Jun 7, 3:32 pm, "Brendin" <some...@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> wrote:
> Hi Ken,
>
> Did you watch the videos on that page? The links are at the bottom in
the
> text on the left hand side. It shows the mid-idlers in use. It worked
> well from my tests. Proof will be long term usage.
>
> Brendin
Brendin,
I finally got around to watching the videos. I didn't get any sound,
so I probably missed some im****tant information.
First, your belt alignment is bad and will cause problems. Belts
tolerate some misalignment but not as much as you show. Add a little
bit of water spray and you'll start having all sorts of interesting
projects to work on.
For belt oscillation, you need to check it all through the RPM range,
or at least the lower range. You also need to have a realistic load
on it to see what really happens. That goes especially for the pulley
alignment part.
Ideally, there is no contact between a vibration damping idler and the
belt, except when there is actual vibration. That might not be
possible here, but whatever you do keep in mind the RPM these pulleys
can be turning. If your engine pulley is 9" and the idler is 4.5",
then your idler can turn up to 7200 rpm. The cheaper idlers have
cheaper bearings too.
All this stuff is related. Imagine going across a lake in a wind.
The waves are pounding, you have to maintain a fairly low engine speed
in order to keep things under control. The speed of the engine goes
in and out of various frequencies which resonate with different parts
of your belt. A wave hits your thrust prop in a way that torques on
the entire structure, and that causes the entire mess to come apart
because your pulleys aren't aligned, or because your idler can't quite
keep the belt in position.
IMO, you need to align every pulley with center as best you can. Good
enough for your garage and good enough for the average day out is not
necessarily good enough for when you got caught miles from your car
and a storm comes up without notice.
|
